Can Botox make you happier?

I just read a very interesting study* performed at the highly reputable School of Psychology at Cardiff University. In this paper the investigators wondered whether injections with botulinum toxin (botulinum toxin is the active ingredient in ‘Botox’) might be useful in cases of depression.

It has long been believed in psychological circles that the actual act of frowning itself can make us feel unhappier. This is believed to happen via facial feedback mechanisms. What this basically means is that if you frown, your brain ‘thinks’ you must be unhappy and provides the corresponding feeling to your facial expression. Cosmetic botulinum toxin treatment on the other hand temporarily reduces the activity of the facial muscles we need to frown. So the question is, if we are no longer able to frown, would that lead to a less negative emotional state? In other words, can we ‘trick’ our brain (by not allowing our frown muscles to do their job) into ‘thinking’ that we must be happy?

Lewis and Bowler put this theory to the test and compared the mood of people who had received cosmetic botulinum toxin treatment with people who had received other cosmetic treatments. Amazingly they found that cosmetic botolinum toxin treatment does indeed correlate with a significantly less negative mood.

Does this mean that people with depression should now receive botolinum toxin injections instead of counseling, psychotherapy and anti-depressants? A good friend of mine, Dr Malin, a lovely Norwegian psychologist practicing in London, comments “It has to be remembered that this study does not indicate that Botox can successfully treat depression and that it can as such replace other treatments for depression. I would therefore highly encourage anybody going through a depressed stage to seek appropriate psychological help."  I couldn’t agree more. However, this is a very interesting study and I am looking forward to further studies in this area.

*J Cosmet Dermatol. 2009 Mar;8(1):24-6 

The day our skin sins finally give us away

When we holistically access a cosmetic patient in clinic, dermatologists look at three key problem areas – a) lines and wrinkles; b) loss of volume and contour; and c) skin surface and texture problems. While early cosmetic treatments were all about ‘chasing’ lines and wrinkles, over the past couple of years there has been plenty of hype about re-contouring and volumising the face. There’s no doubt that plumper cheeks and a firmer jawline give a more youthful profile. Yet a good daily skincare regime can work wonders for your skin surface and texture, while improving elasticity, irregular pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles.

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There’s no doubt that the right skincare can also delay the need for minimal invasive procedures and even surgery. But here’s the problem. There’s a jungle of extremely appealing skincare products on beauty shelves and counters out there - even practitioners find it hard to judge which ones come with serious scientific back-up. Marketing bumf can be so misleading….

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In clinic, patients are always asking me what skincare regime I recommend as a dermatologist. That’s why I have developed EudeloBoutique.com. Here I give expert tips and advice on how to look after your specific skin type and offer a hand-picked choice of must-have products I believe will work. It’s my hope that this new website will change the way people look after their skin and help them to stop wasting cash on so-called luxury products that frankly don’t deliver.

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As a dermatologist, I can't stress strongly enough how crucial skincare is. In our 20s, mother nature helps us to hide most of our 'skincare sins'. But from our 30s onwards, our skin is much less forgiving and it becomes more and more obvious how well it’s been looked after over the years and whether or not we’ve used regular sun protection. So don’t think skincare doesn’t make a difference. It’s no quick fix - we’re talking months to years, rather than days or weeks. But it’s worth it in the long term. So my advice is to choose your skincare wisely - and stick to it.  

Summer and skin – a love / hate relationship

We so deserve the gorgeous weather we’ve been having recently - even the odd shower doesn’t seem too bad now. But sitting in a London park recently for my lunch break, I couldn’t help but notice all those pale skins turning red in the sun. Surprising?  We’re in the UK - not Spain or Italy - after all.  Sorry to rain on your parade, but the average skin ‘suntype’ in the UK is simply not made to deal with the sun’s harmful rays, even on home turf. Yet we’re always so relieved when our summer finally starts, many of us forget to take precautions and bask in the direct sun at high noon without sunscreen - gradually turning into lobsters. Maybe most people assume that since we’re here and not somewhere in the Med, the sun can’t be that bad, can it?

Well, you might be surprised to hear that we have extremely worrying skin cancer rates in the UK. Our rate of melanoma - the most serious type of skin cancer - is above the EU average. Interestingly, skin cancer rates in affluent areas are much higher compared to those in more deprived areas, but overall cases are rising steeply, with almost a third of all cases affecting women under 50. According to the British Association of Dermatologists, the incidence of melanoma is increasing faster than any other common cancer - rates are doubling every 10-20 years and projections suggest they’ll continue to rise until 2024!

One reason must be that we still see a tan as so attractive, it’s worth the risk - as I observed in the park the other day. But the good news is that at least we’re starting to teach our kids about sun protection. I was delighted to receive a letter from my children’s head teacher last week, reminding parents to apply sun protection to their kid’s skin each morning and send them to school with sun hats. An excellent start.

So here’s a thought. If we adults protected our own skin as well as our kids’, we’d have a win-win situation. Serious sun protection includes not sitting in direct sun, especially around noon and always apply a good broad-spectrum sunscreen product of at least SPF30 regularly.  For everyone’s sake - save your skin.

Feet that look fab in flip-flops and legs worth showing off? I've found the perfect solutions

At last, it's time for bare legs and strappy sandals. Dreading exposing those pasty-pale legs and rough, dry heels? You're not alone. A long winter's neglect - not to mention central heating - can leave the skin on your feet dry, thickened and maybe even cracked. Plus, it's a fair bet that your legs haven't seen daylight in months. But whoa there, no knee-jerking - sunburn's not the way to give your legs a dress-friendly glow. I've found far more effective solutions to prepare you for the great summer reveal.

So, feet first. Let me introduce you to the perfect pedi - in a jar! Minor miracle 'NeoStrata Problem Dry Skin Cream' contains high strength (20%) alpha hydroxy acids, which will progressively soften and smoothen even very dry, tough skin on your heels. (In fact if it doesn't do the job, you may have a skin condition that needs medical attention - see me in clinic if you're worried).

Now for those legs. Flatter them with GloMinerals Body Glisten, a refreshing lotion with a wonderfully subtle shimmer that gives skin a smooth, even glow that also helps to make them look more slender and shapely - a best-kept celebrity secret.

Now flex those feet and liberate those limbs!

Why no-one should trust those ‘All skin types’ labels

Whenever I snoop around department stores or ‘mystery shop’ at beauty counters, the abuse of the phrase ‘for all skin types’ really annoys me. No matter how many times you read this on packages, to a dermatologist, it’s nonsense. And while I fully appreciate that the more people a product appeals to the better its profit margins, what I don’t understand is how it can attract loyal customers. Surely at least half of those who believed the ‘for all skin types’ promise won’t just end up disillusioned - they’ll share the bad news with their friends!

I can tell you that every single week I have patients sitting in my clinic with breakouts, simply because they’re using the wrong type of skincare product for their skin.  And this, by the way, is something they’ve often been advised to use by a supposedly experienced beauty consultant. While we’re talking about consultants, sadly I have to report too, that many have a shockingly poor knowledge about even the basics of skin biology and the science (if any!) behind the products they’re selling.  Apologies to anyone not falling into this category - and I would be truly delighted to be proved wrong next time I approach a beauty counter. But it does seem that too many of these super-groomed ‘know alls’ well……don’t, actually. 

But let’s not digress. What I really want to say is that skincare should always be adapted to individual skin types. In the majority of cases, one simply does not fit all. While dry skin needs a re-hydrating, lipid-rich cleanser, say, oily skin prone to breakouts would benefit from a foaming cleanser and should use only oil-free products. I feel strongly that many skin problems could be avoided if people received the right advice from companies less interested in making a quick buck and more dedicated to offering long-term, tailor-made solutions. So next time you are tempted to buy a product at the beauty counter, be wary about those ‘All skin types’ products.

Chocolate’s good for your skin – we’ve proved it!

A moment on your lips - an outbreak of zits?  Chocolate has long been stigmatized as a skin enemy, causing spotty, oily skin. The role of diet in acne remains highly controversial -  numerous scientific studies have failed to demonstrate that chocolate aggravates acne, yet many sufferers claim there’s a clear link. Clearly, this is an area that needs even more research.  But in the meantime, here’s the good news for chocolate lovers. We have recently completed a controlled scientific study at the University of the Arts, Cosmetic Science that indicates chocolate may help protect skin from sun damage.

You might know that cocoa beans fresh from the tree are exceptionally rich in antioxidant flavanols. The problem is that conventional chocolate making methods greatly deplete antioxidantactivity in all types - milk, dark, organic or regular. The new Acticoa method however, preserves the fresh beans’ flavanols - and it was this type of chocolate that we clinically tested under highly controlled conditions. What we found was that eating small amounts daily for twelve weeks more than doubled skin’s natural protection against sunburn, while normal dark chocolate had no such benefits. Our findings have now been published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.

So my advice would be that if you love chocolate, make sure you choose a bar with the ‘Acticoa’ logo and the highest possible antioxidant content. But don’t give up your regular broad-spectrum SPF30-50 protection. Chocolate’s by no means the ultimate UV-defense - but every bite helps!

Honoured to be named one of UK's best cosmetic doctors

I've finally escaped Volcano chaos and arrived back in the UK to some fabulous news.  In their current issue, Tatler magazine has named me as one of Britain's best cosmetic doctors. It goes without saying, I'm thrilled to be honoured. Thank you Tatler!