Why no-one should trust those ‘All skin types’ labels

Whenever I snoop around department stores or ‘mystery shop’ at beauty counters, the abuse of the phrase ‘for all skin types’ really annoys me. No matter how many times you read this on packages, to a dermatologist, it’s nonsense. And while I fully appreciate that the more people a product appeals to the better its profit margins, what I don’t understand is how it can attract loyal customers. Surely at least half of those who believed the ‘for all skin types’ promise won’t just end up disillusioned - they’ll share the bad news with their friends!

I can tell you that every single week I have patients sitting in my clinic with breakouts, simply because they’re using the wrong type of skincare product for their skin.  And this, by the way, is something they’ve often been advised to use by a supposedly experienced beauty consultant. While we’re talking about consultants, sadly I have to report too, that many have a shockingly poor knowledge about even the basics of skin biology and the science (if any!) behind the products they’re selling.  Apologies to anyone not falling into this category - and I would be truly delighted to be proved wrong next time I approach a beauty counter. But it does seem that too many of these super-groomed ‘know alls’ well……don’t, actually. 

But let’s not digress. What I really want to say is that skincare should always be adapted to individual skin types. In the majority of cases, one simply does not fit all. While dry skin needs a re-hydrating, lipid-rich cleanser, say, oily skin prone to breakouts would benefit from a foaming cleanser and should use only oil-free products. I feel strongly that many skin problems could be avoided if people received the right advice from companies less interested in making a quick buck and more dedicated to offering long-term, tailor-made solutions. So next time you are tempted to buy a product at the beauty counter, be wary about those ‘All skin types’ products.

Chocolate’s good for your skin – we’ve proved it!

A moment on your lips - an outbreak of zits?  Chocolate has long been stigmatized as a skin enemy, causing spotty, oily skin. The role of diet in acne remains highly controversial -  numerous scientific studies have failed to demonstrate that chocolate aggravates acne, yet many sufferers claim there’s a clear link. Clearly, this is an area that needs even more research.  But in the meantime, here’s the good news for chocolate lovers. We have recently completed a controlled scientific study at the University of the Arts, Cosmetic Science that indicates chocolate may help protect skin from sun damage.

You might know that cocoa beans fresh from the tree are exceptionally rich in antioxidant flavanols. The problem is that conventional chocolate making methods greatly deplete antioxidantactivity in all types - milk, dark, organic or regular. The new Acticoa method however, preserves the fresh beans’ flavanols - and it was this type of chocolate that we clinically tested under highly controlled conditions. What we found was that eating small amounts daily for twelve weeks more than doubled skin’s natural protection against sunburn, while normal dark chocolate had no such benefits. Our findings have now been published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.

So my advice would be that if you love chocolate, make sure you choose a bar with the ‘Acticoa’ logo and the highest possible antioxidant content. But don’t give up your regular broad-spectrum SPF30-50 protection. Chocolate’s by no means the ultimate UV-defense - but every bite helps!

Honoured to be named one of UK's best cosmetic doctors

I've finally escaped Volcano chaos and arrived back in the UK to some fabulous news.  In their current issue, Tatler magazine has named me as one of Britain's best cosmetic doctors. It goes without saying, I'm thrilled to be honoured. Thank you Tatler!

A distressing spot of bother?

The other week I read in a major newspaper that we, as patients, are wasting billions of pounds on the NHS because we see our GPs with only ‘minor’ ailments. One of these ailments the article quoted was acne. As a dermatologist, I was shocked and outraged. Just because acne is so common - not only among teenagers but increasingly in women in their 30s and 40s, too - that doesn’t mean it should be accepted as inevitable. Acne is a distressing condition that can result in permanent scarring.  Can anyone give me another example of an often disfiguring disease affecting the face that would be tolerated without trying everything under the sun to resolve it?  Frankly, I can’t think of one. So why is it that in the UK, acne is often accepted with stoical patience by so many patients who believe they must endure it without complaining?  When I have mentioned their child’s truly dreadful outbreak, I’ve even heard a parent refer to it as ‘only acne.’

How tragically wrong that parent’s attitude was. In a study published in the British Journal of Dermatology, Professor Gupta, MD and professor in the Department of Psychiatry at the University of Western Ontario, Canada, found that even non-severe acne can cause profound emotional problems such as depression and even suicidal thoughts. Acne has also a significant impact on the patient’s quality of life. I would always strongly encourage anybody suffering with breakouts to see a dermatologist to get started on treatment – before scaring occurs! There are now highly effective treatments available, one of which can even switch acne off for good in the majority of patients. Above all, please never feel you’re a time-waster. The only possible waste is the time you’ve spent feeling distressed. 

Pigment - The good, the bad and the ugly

Still hankering after that golden glow? Sorry to tell you, but all tans are not created equal. Human skin has two main types of pigment - eumelanin and pheomelanin. Under the sun, fair skin generates more pheomelanin - a reddish, yellow-brown tone, while dark skin makes mainly eumelanin, a black-brown melanin - the best quality for natural UV-protection. Pheomelanin is less stable and breaks down when exposed to UVB rays, generating free radicals in the skin. So instead of protecting against the sun, pheomelanin actively contributes to UV-induced skin damage - the reason why fair, freckly skin types are at most risk of sun damage. Scientific studies have shown that not only sunburn is a sign of skin damage - in fair skins, tanning is too. For this vulnerable skin type, sun protection equals skin preservation. The best way to protect fair skin is to avoid the sun wherever possible - especially between 10am and 4pm on holiday. Back in the real world, this isn’t always possible, so a good sun protection cream is the next best thing especially for your face, hands and chest.
Remember ultraviolet A (UVA) rays are the most ageing in the sun’s spectrum and can penetrate clouds and glass. To keep your face and décolletage skin young, you need to apply sun protection every single day, all year around. I recommend a broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) SPF20-50 sunscreen cream instead of a morning moisturiser. When you choose the right texture for your skin type to prevent breakouts and blocked pores, you can regard it as your No.1 anti-ageing skin-saver.

Self tanners - really harmless?

How safe is it to fake it?  Self tanners have traditionally been seen as an easy way of getting a sunkissed look without risking UV-damage. And although I agree that they’re much less harmful for your skin than baking on a beach or - heaven forbid - a sunbed, I do have my reservations. And that’s apart from the ‘burnt biscuit’ whiff….

Self-tanning formulas usually rely on DHA (dihydroxyacetone), a sugar-derived molecule that stains the horny layer of your skin brown due to a chemical process called the Maillard reaction. Self-tanners don’t induce real pigment formation then, but only stain the skin’s surface layer. Sounds harmless. But  the ‘Maillard’ reaction still generates a certain amount of free radicals and oxidative stress in your skin. And although that amount may not be high, I personally try to avoid products that generate free radical activity in my skin, in order to limit the risk of premature ageing. It is also important to remember that unlike a natural tan, the colour you get from a self-tanner provides hardly any sun protection at all. 

So my advice is, love and accept your skin’s natural colour. Noticed how more and more celebrities in glossy magazines are dumping the perma-tan in favour of their own, natural tone? Each skin colour has its unique beauty.  So isn’t it time we celebrated that? 

7 days to change the future for your skin

Want to make an investment that pays serious long-term dividends? Change one thing in your life each day for the next seven days, and it could dramatically change how well your skin will age. In time, you’ll look 10 years younger than your contemporaries who have kept up their old habits. Here’s what to do.

Day 1: Stop smoking. This is one of the single, most crucial moves to keep your skin looking young. Come on - it’s never too late!

Day 2: Start using broad-spectrum (UVA / UVB) sun protection. Instead of your regular moisturiser, switch to an SPF20-50 formula and use it every single morning, year-round - summer and winter. I use an SPF50 product whether or not I plan to spend time outside. Aiming high with sun protection is important, since studies have shown that we rarely use enough product to reach the SPF factor stated on the package! And sun beds? Don’t even go there…

Day 3: Get the antioxidant habit. Apply a good antioxidant serum to your face, neck, chest and hands every morning before you apply sun protection.

Day 4: Change your diet. Make sure you include lots of fresh fruit and vegetables, low-GI carbohydrates, lean, high-quality protein and unsaturated fats.

Day 5: Drink 2 litres of water daily. You can also include unsweetened white or green antioxidant teas in your quota.

Day 6: Start using a vitamin A ‘repair’ cream. Apply it to your face, chest, neck and hands each evening. Look for over-the-counter products containing retinol or retinaldehyde, or ask your dermatologist to prescribe a ‘gold-standard’ tretinoin cream. As vitamin A derivatives can be potentially irritating, they need to be adjusted to whatever your skin tolerates.

Day 7: Make sure you have enough sleep and reduce your stress levels! Sleep deprivation and stress raise your levels of cortisol - a hormone known to have negative effects on collagen metabolism. Did you know too, that increased cortisol levels due to chronic sleep loss can lead to insulin resistance, a risk factor for obesity and diabetes?

It only takes a week to change the future of your skin. Start now - and prepare to look fabulous for your age!